Foolproof Socks (Cuff Down)

Up until hearing about Yarndale, and the now infamous sock line, I hadn't made knitted socks for probably 20+ years when it was all the craze and to be honest I didn't particularly get on that well with them. When I read about the sockline I knew straight away I wanted to get involved and send a pair even if I couldn't get to Yarndale in person, so I was determined to give them another go.

I've been knitting for over 40 years and I thought to myself how difficult can a pair of socks be???? I'm glad nobody had a camera pointed in my direction at the time because the concentration on my face and the faces I must have been pulling from frowning to the tongue sticking out would not have been a photo I wouldn't have wanted appearing on any social media. 

After a few attempts at getting the right size needle and the right amount of stitches I was off. It took a bit of working out but by the end of it I did come up with a pair of socks to fit UK shoe size 4-6. 

Then in 2017 I decided in my madness that I would challenge myself to make a pair a month + an additional 2 pairs for the Sock line. Every month another pair was cast on and completed until I had my 12 pairs + 2 pairs for Christine's sock line.  Since completing the challenge I have now extended the pattern to include three sizes 4-6, 7-8 and 9-11. 

I have been making the same socks in various sizes, guises and yarns but  never got  around to writing up the pattern. Some of the ladies at my local knit & knatter group have decided that as a challenge to themselves for the New Year  that they would like to have ago at making socks and have asked if I will show them how to make them so with this in mind I decided it was definitely time to sit down and write up the pattern instead of keeping it locked away in my head. 

Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
dpn’s	double pointed needles
alt	alternate
C	contrast
cm	centimetres
cont	continue
dec	decrease(ing)
in	inche(s)
inc	increase(ing)
k	knit
M	main
mm	millimetres
0	no stitches, times or rows
p	purl
patt	pattern
rem	remain(ing)
rep	repeat
rnd	round
rs	right side
s1p	slip 1 stitch purl ways
st	stitch(es)
tbl	through back of loop
tog	together
ws	wrong side

Needles required:  1 set of 2.75mm DPN's and 1 set of 3.25mm DPN's

Yarn required: 100g of 4 ply sock yarn will make a pair of socks. If you choose to have a contrasting colour for the cuff, heal and toe then you will need another 50g in your contrasting colour.

Yarns I have used have included Drops Delight, Drops Fabel, and  West Yorkshire Spinners ,  but any good quality 4 ply sock yarn will work with this pattern. 

Sizes: 4-6 (7-8: 9-11)

Using the 3.25mm dpn's cast on 60(68:72) stitches either in your contrast colour if using or main colour and space out evenly over 3 of the dpn's

Change to the 2.75mm dpn's

1st rnd: K2, P2 until you have completed the round.

Continue in 2 x 2 rib until for 2 inches

Next rnd: inc. 1 stitch at each end of the last rnd 62 (70:72) stitches

Change to 3.25mm dpn's to work the calf of the sock.

1st rnd: knit

Rep the 1st rnd until your sock measures 9 (10:11) inches  

Change to 2.75mm dpn's

Making your heel flap

Using your contrast colour or main knit the first 15 (17:18) stitches of round, from needle 1 and onto the same needle (needle 1) slip the last 16 (18:19) stitches of round  from needle 3. These 31 (35:37) stitches are for the heel flap.

Divide the remaining 31 (35:37) stitches onto the two remaining needles to make it easier to work and leave for instep. I divide them into 16 (18:19)  stitches on the 2nd needle and 15 (17:18) on the 3rd.

Back to the first needle with the 31 (35:37)  stitches for your heel flap. You will work in rows back and forth rather than in a round. 

1st row purl

2nd row K1, slip 1 purways (having K1 bring the needle round as though you were going to purl the next stitch then slip the next stitch onto the right hand needle then put the yarn to the back ready to knit the next stitch), repeating to the end of the row, Repeat the first and second rows 11 (13:13) times (12 (14:14  in all). Then purl a row. 

You are now ready to turn your heel

1st row:  K21 (23:25), Ktog, K1, turn

2nd row: Purl 13 (13:15), P2tog, P1, turn

3rd row: K14 (14:16), K2tog, K1, turn

4th row: P15 (15:17) , P2tog, P1 turn

5th row: K16, K2tog, K1, turn

6th row: P17 (17:19), P2tog, P1, turn

7th row: K18 (18:20) , K2tog, K1, turn

8th row: P19 (19:21), Ptog, P1, turn

9th row: K20 (20:22), K2tog, turn

10th row: P21 (21:23), P2tog, turn

21 (21:23) stitches remain

Next row: Using your main colour K21(21:23)  stitches on the first needle.

Using your spare dpn pick up 12 (13:13) stitches along the side of the heel.

Next row: with the right side facing , using needle 1 holding the 21 stitches from the heel, knit 12 (13:13)  stitches (from your spare needle) that you have picked up from the side of the heel ; with the second needle knit across the 31 (35:37)  stitches for instep that you left on two needles earlier; using the spare needle pick up 12 (13:13)  stitches along the other side of the heel now with the third needle knit 12 (13:13) stitches from the spare needle  then knit 10 (11:11) stitches from the first needle (76:84:86 stitches in total).

Shape Instep

1st rnd:  knit

2nd rnd: 1st needle knit to the last 2 stitches, K2tog; on 2nd needle knit to the end; on the 3rd needle K2togtbl, knit to end (74:82:84 stitches)

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rounds 7 times (60:68:70 stitches)

Next rnd:  knit

Repeat the last rnd until the foot measures 7 (8:9) inches from the back of the heel.

If using a contrast colour add back in at this point or continue using your main colour and work a further 10 rounds.

Getting ready to shape the toe

For the first and second sizes only :Knit  the 1st needle then work across the stitches from the 2nd needle as follows K1, K2togtbl then knit to the last 3 stitches K2tog, K1, knit stitches from the 3rd needle. (58:66 stitches)

For all three sizes:

At this point you will have 15 (17:18) stitches on the 1st needle, 29 (33:35)  stitches on the 2nd needle and 14 (16:17)  stitches on the 3rd needle.

Knit the 15 (17:18) stitches on the 1st needle onto the 3rd needle so that you are left with 2 needles each holding 29 (33:35) stitches.

Shaping the Toe

1st rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on first needle K2tog, repeat on 2nd needle. (54:62:66 stitches)

2nd and every alternate rnd knit.

3rd rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on the needle and K2tog, repeat on 2nd needle (50:58:62 stitches)

5th rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on the needle and K2 tog, repeat on 2nd needle (46:54:58 stitches)

7th rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on the needle and K2tog, repeat on 2nd needle (42:50:54 stitches)

9th rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on the needle and K2tog, repeat on 2nd needle (38:46:50 stitches)

11th rnd: K2togtbl knit to the last two stitches on the needle and K2tog, repeat on 2nd needle (34:42:46 stitches)

12th rnd: knit

At this point you will need to pull the sock through so that you have the wrong side showing ready to graft the stitches together when casting off. 

Graft together stitches on both needles by taking one stitch from each needle and knitting at the same time so that you are left with one stitch left on your right hand needle. Once you have completed grafting your second stitch and you have two stitches on the right hand needle you can begin to bind off by lifting first stitch over the 2nd the same way as you would bind off normally. 

Sew in all your ends and you now you have a completed sock. Well done you. Now make a 2nd to complete your pair.

Mx